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Wong, who previously helmed the Official baltimore Vs Everybody Shirt Furthermore, I will do this kitchen at the Michelin-awarded Vietnamese restaurant Van Da in Manhattan’s East Village, is overseeing a sizable, multi-venue dining hub occupying a former 19th-century knitting mill in the village’s central square, where Morningbird—the first of three dining concepts to open—currently operates as an all-day cafe. There, the weekly rotating menu features a trim lineup of casual Southeast Asian-inspired dishes such as juicy and umami-rich sambal chicken (see recipe below), and vegan lemongrass tofu with rice noodles, its flavors both earthy and herbaceous from mushrooms and fresh greens. Wong, 35, grew up in New Jersey eating foods that nodded to her family’s southern Chinese and Hong Kong roots (a lot of Cantonese and dim sum, she recalls), before a post-college year traveling throughout southeast Asia exposed her to the flavors of Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam and Cambodia. Morningbird’s menu reflects all of those various regions. “These are all the dishes and flavors that I love, and I don’t think we’re so strict about making sure it fits into a very certain box,” she explained over the phone. Nearby farms and their local ingredients may offer up inspiration for each week’s menu, but beyond that, Wong’s sees Morningbird as an opportunity for adventure, a chance to display her culinary versatility.
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